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"Cell turnover enhancer" is a functional and pharmacological descriptor rather than a specific molecular target (such as a single receptor or enzyme). It refers to a class of therapeutic and cosmetic agents that accelerate the natural physiological process of desquamation—the shedding of dead corneocytes—and stimulate the mitotic production of new keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis (Mukherjee S, et al., 2006). This process is vital for maintaining skin texture, treating acne, and reversing signs of photoaging. The actual molecular targets mediating these effects vary: retinoids act through nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs) to modulate gene expression related to growth and differentiation (Brattsand M, et al., 2005). Meanwhile, chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) function by weakening the ionic bonds between corneocytes or by influencing the activity of endogenous desquamatory enzymes, such as kallikrein-related peptidases (Babilas P, et al., 2012). While these agents are therapeutically significant for conditions like psoriasis and hyperpigmentation, they often carry safety concerns including skin irritation, barrier disruption, and increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.
Activation of Retinoic Acid Receptors (RAR) and Retinoid X Receptors (RXR) to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation; enzymatic degradation of desmosomal proteins to facilitate the shedding of the stratum corneum; reduction of corneocyte adhesion through pH-dependent inhibition of ionic bonding.
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