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Epidermal exfoliation enzymes are a general class of proteases (proteolytic enzymes) that mimic or enhance the natural process of desquamation, which is the shedding of the stratum corneum (outermost skin layer). Endogenous examples include cathepsin D and transglutaminases, but most topical "enzyme exfoliants" used in skincare are derived from natural sources such as fruits (e.g., papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple, ficin from fig) or microbes. These enzymes accelerate the breakdown of proteins (such as keratin) and protein connections (desmosomes or corneodesmosomes) between dead skin cells, facilitating their controlled removal. This process is gentler compared to chemical (AHA/BHA) or mechanical exfoliation and is considered less likely to cause irritation, making enzyme-based products popular in dermatological and cosmetic applications, especially for sensitive skin types. However, "epidermal exfoliation enzymes" is not a canonical name for a single molecular target; rather, it denotes a function or category of enzymes. When used therapeutically, their efficacy and safety depend on enzyme type, stability, activity, and patient skin characteristics.
Catalyze hydrolysis of peptide bonds in protein substrates of the stratum corneum, enabling breakdown of corneocytes and cell-cell adhesion proteins, leading to exfoliation
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